X-Trail Carputer Project |
 |
| TITLE |
+ |
- |
| FILE NAME |
+ |
- |
| DATE |
+ |
- |
|
|
Test fitting – 1164 viewsIt fits! The computer's not sitting straight because the carpet under one side is slightly higher than the rest. But this won't matter when the lower part of the bracket will be done, pulling the case up against the top bracket.
|
|
Top bracket clamped for marking of holes – 1024 viewsThe bracket still needs to be drilled so it can be bolted to the mounting tabs. I positioned the bar as I wanted it using spring-loaded clamps. Then, I scratched drill marks on the steel through the mounting tab bolt holes using a bent nail.
|
|
Fast-forward – 989 viewsI forgot to take pictures of much of the next phase, but it was fairly straightforward. I drilled the holes for mounting, then tested for fit. Some adjustment drilling was required. Then, I began work on the lower mounting bracket. This was thinner, drilled steel bar stock that I could bend without heating. Using the case as a template and taking measurements where necessary, I bent the lower bracket to cradle the carputer from below. Then I drilled the top bracket to accomodate a bolt with a butterfly nut.
|
|
Rubber nubs – 834 viewsThis detail shot shows the rubber "feet" you can buy by the sheet at Active Surplus. I stuck a few of them to the lower bracket so that it firmly grips the case without scratching it. The upper bracket also got an adhesive rubber surface: the cutout sheet that's left on the wax paper when you use up all the rubber feet.
|
|
994 viewsOne end of the lower bracket will be fastened in place by sharing the seat tab mounting bolt with the upper bracket. This works with the factory bolt, but I will need to buy a slightly longer one to ensure it's threaded far enough through the mounting tab threads.
|
|
Butterfly nut – 1002 viewsThe butterfly nut lets me loosen the bracket enough to pull out carputer when I need to, without the use of tools. I adjust the bracket's grip on the case using this, too.
|
|
Stealth mounting – 993 viewsWith the seat's side trim in place, you can hardly tell there's a computer under there.
|
|
Carputer, mounted – 1007 viewsHere's a shot of the carputer mounted in the finished bracket.The carpet is cut just below it so you can see the VIN number stamped in the floorboard, so the carpet doesn't sit quite flat here. That's normal.
Next: wiring, and carpeted MDF mounting boards for the other components.
|
|
Outboard component board cardboard template – 1389 viewsI need locations to mount four peripherals: a 7-port USB hub, a 5-port Ethernet switch, a Carnetix P1290 power supply and an Elmscan OBDII interface. To minimize drilling and keep everything near the CPU, I decided to create custom-cut MDF boards that would be mounted under the seat legs.
The outboard template, pictured, was easiest to create. I used the factory seat trim cover as a template to trace the floor contour on a piece of carboard. I then test-fit and trimmed the cardboard until it was of a shape that could be inserted under the seat legs and held in place by the plastic trim.
|
|
Cutting the MDF – 1379 viewsOnce the cardboard template was fitting nicely under the seat legs, I traced its outline on a piece of 1/2" MDF. I then cut the shape using a jigsaw.
|
|
MDF outboard component board – 1378 viewsHere's the finished board in place. After I figure out which components go where, I'll drill it, then upholster it. I'm thinking either black vinyl or gray carpeting.
|
|
MDF outboard component board, viewed from under the seat – 1443 viewsThis should provide plenty of mounting space for two or three components. The plastic trim cover will keep it from falling, as it covers the back all the way to the notch you see at the top. The front seat leg surrounds the front of the board from both sides.
|
|
| 127 files on 11 page(s) |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
8 | |
|
|
|
